Central Moscow
Central Moscow is not only the heart of the city, but of the
Russian Federation. It is the place within the Federation that most people
consider to be "Russia." If one is traveling to Russia, most frequently they
mean they are going to Moscow. And, when traveling to Moscow, most frequently,
one visits the multitude of significant sites in the city center. Muskovites
refer to central Moscow as the "center" and do not refer to it as Americans do
as "downtown." Below are several photographs of some of the more important
places in the "center."
At the "core" of the "heart" of the "center"
is the Kremlin, a 64-acre fortress built on a low lying hill at the confluence
of the Moskva and Neglinnaya Rivers in 1147, although a settlement existed on
the site as early as 500 B.C. The Kremlin contains historically significant
cathedrals, palaces, and government buildings. The photograph below is taken
from the southwest looking northeast. The significant features in this photo
are the Borovitskaya Tower on the left (one of the entrance gates to the
Kremlin, the name going back to the pine-grove covered hill where the Kremlin
was first founded), the Armory Palace adjacent to it (built in 1844 to contain
gold and siver workshops and ultimately the vast treasures of the Tsars), and
the Great Kremlin Palace to the right (built in 1838 as the Imperial
residence).
Outside
of the Kremlin wall, on the west side, is located the beautiful Alexander
Garden. The garden is a pleasant place to walk as well as observe two
important Russian monuments, the Obelisk to Revolutionary Thinkers and the
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Pictured below is the Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier. It is frequently the site at which Russians lay flowers and it is
also a tradition for newly married couples, dressed in their tuxedos and
wedding dresses, to come here and lay flowers as a tribute to their war dead.
Moscow
and Russia are also Red Square. It is, perhaps, the most visible symbol of
Russia. Red Square, originally known as Beautiful Square, is contiguous to the
Kremlin's northeast wall and contains some of the most famous icons in Russia:
Lenin's Mausoleum, St. Basil's Cathedral, GUM, and the State Historical
Museum. The following photograph is taken from the inside of St. Basil's
Cathedral looking to the northwest across the length of Red Square. On the far
left is the Kremlin wall with the Senate Tower dominating. Behind the tower is
the Senate building itself. The monument with two figures to the left of
center is of Minin and Pozharsky (two heros of the Time of Troubles--a period
in Russian history just prior to the time when the Romonov family began to
rule Russia.) Immediately left of the Minin and Pozharsky monument (a low,
dark structure) is Lenin's Mausoleum. Directly above the Minin and Pozharsky
monument is the large Nikol'skaya Tower (another entrance to the Kremlin). To
the right of Minin and Pozharsky monument is the State Historical Museum.
If a
person tours Lenin's Mausoleum, it not possible to go directly back into Red
Square. Before that can happen, one must first pass through a small plot of
ground behind the mausoleum where a small number of Communist leaders are
buried. The next photograph, taken with a telephoto lens, is Stalin's grave
and monument.
The most
famous structure in all of Russia is found at the southeast end of Red
Square--St. Basil's Cathedral also known as the Cathedral of the Virgin of the
Intercession. Ivan the Terrible commissioned the construction of the cathedral
to commemorate his army's seizure of the Tatar stronghold of Kazan on October
1, 1552. According to legend, Ivan had the architect blinded so that he might
never again create a church of such splendor. St. Basil's Cathedral is
illustrated in the next photograph.
On the
east side of Red Square, opposite Lenin's Mausoleum, is the long facade of
GUM, the State Department Store--Russia's largest. The original structure
contained over 1000 individual shops, but over the years, shops have become
larger and fewer in number. Today, the average Russian generally cannot afford
to shop in GUM as it has become filled with shops catering more and more to
wealthy western tourists. Below is a photograph of GUM.
On the
northwest end of Red Square, opposite St. Basil's Cathedral, is the beautiful
State Historical Museum (see photograph below). It has only recently become
accessible to tourists after several years of renovation. Just to the right of
and behind the museum is the Hotel Moskva. One can also see construction
(1994) of the Resurrection Gate. This gate, demolished during the Soviet
period, has now been rebuilt at the northwest end of Red Square adjacent to
the State Historical Museum.
A short
distance from the Kremlin and Red Square, but yet generally located in the
"center," are four other significant structures. The first (shown below) is
the world-famous Bolshoi Theater. The theater is located north of Red Square
in what is known as Theater Square. Originally built in 1776, the theater has
burned down twice, once in 1805 and again in 1853. The existing massive
eight-columned portico surmounted by the chariot of Apollo was part of the
original design. The interior of the existing building is magnificent.
Watching an opera or ballet in the Bolshoi is, perhaps, secondary to the
splendid setting in which it occurs.
While
there are many places in Russia, Moscow, and St. Petersburg that I really
enjoy, my favorite place of all is the The State Tret'ykov Gallery. This
gallery contains the finest collection of Russian icons in the world as well
as Russian art work from the 11th through the 17th, 18th, 19th, and 20th
centuries. The museum building was initially the Moscow Municipal Art Gallery
which had been donated to the City of Moscow in 1892 by Pavel Tret'ykov. The
gallery collection now exceeds 100,000 works. All visitors of Moscow must
visit the Tret'ykov Gallery. It is superb. The front entrance is shown in the
photograph below.
Just to
the west of the Kremlin a relatively short distance is Arbat, a pedestrian
street. This is a fun street to stroll along if one likes crowds, music,
artists, and street vendors. On the west end one can find a McDonald's
Restaurant (a bit out of character for this street) and near the east end is
Dom Knigi, a very large bookstore. The Arbatskaya Metro station, at the east
end of Arbat Street, is also an interesting place to watch Russians. The
photograph shown below is rather representative of this famous street.
The final
photograph (see below) in this series is the Russian White House or the
capitol building of the Russian Federation. It was here, in October 1993,
where communist hardliners attempted to take control of the government. Boris
Yeltsin brought in soldiers and tanks, fired on the building, drove the
hardliners out, and took control of the building and maintained power as
President of the Russian Federation.
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Email: brooksg@mail.uca.edu